DIY Baby Sweater Dress

What Prompts Me to DIY
The one ball of Bernat Baby Sport yarn that I bought for the Super Easy Infant Sweater is so big that there is at least 3/4 ball left after that sweater. So I decide to make a matching sweater dress from it. I thought that would use up most of what's leftover, but surprisingly, I still have about half a ball left! That's much a huge ball of yarn for just $6!!

Project
Baby Sweater Dress - Sized for Baby 12 Months

Materials
Yarn: Bernat Baby Sport, Color Funny Print
Knitting Needle: US10, US4

Time & Cost
Project Time: 25 Hr
Cost: $2

How (Adapted from Original)

1. Gauge: (US10) 18 sts = 4" in stockinette stitch; (US4) 26 sts = 4" in stockinette stitch.
2. Front Skirt:
1. (US10) Cast on 63 st. K 4 rows (row 1-4).
2. St st (k on RS, p on WS) until piece measures 10.5" (row 5-64). 
3. k3, (k2tog, k1) 20 times - 43 st (row 65).
4. bind off.
3. Front Bodice:
1. (US4) RS facing. Pick up k43, 1 row. p 1 row. (row 1-2)
2. k2, (kfb, k1) 20 times, k1 - 63 st (row 3).
3. St st until piece measures 11.5" (row 4-8).
4. bind off 7 sts, k to end - 56 st (row 9).
5. bind off 7 sts, p to end - 49 st (row 10).
6. k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 - 47 st (row 11).
7. p1, p2tog, p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 - 45 st (row 12).
8. k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 - 43 st (row 13).
9. p 1 row (row 14).
4. Front Neck:
1. k12, slip onto holder. bind off 19 sts. k to end (row 1).
2. p 1 row (row 2).
3. k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 - 11 sts (row 3).
4. p1, p2tog, p to end - 10 sts (row 4).
5. k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 - 9 sts (row 5).
6. p1, p2tog, p to end - 8 sts (row 6).
7. k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 - 7 sts (row 7).
8. St st until piece measures 15" (row 8-24).
9. bind off.
10. Slip the 12 stitch back onto US4, ready to work on WS. Join yarn, p to end. (row 2)
11. k1, k2tog, k to end - 11 sts (row 3).
12. p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 - 10 sts (row 4).
13. k1, k2tog, k to end - 9 sts (row 5).
14. p to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1 - 8 sts (row 6).
15. k1, k2tog, k to end - 7 sts (row 7).
16. St st until piece measures 15" (row 8-24).
17. bind off.
5. Back: Make same as Front.
6. Finishing
1. Neck: Seam across top of 1 shoulder. (on RS) pick up around Neck. bind off. Seam across other shoulder.
2. Armholes: (on RS) pick up around Armhole. bind off. Seam sides.

LLBB's super cute Baby Sweater Dress!

Tips

1. There are several challenges in this otherwise easy sweater dress, but nothing that a few tutorials can't teach. First is to pick up a bound off edge. This is done to add special effects to the piece such as this one where you change from a US10 to a US4 across the edge, thus making a gathered skirt effect. Here is a great Picture Tutorial by KD Sandy. You almost don't need to read the text! 
2. Second is to seam the shoulders and the sides of the dress in such a way that it looks as if it's knitted all in one piece. Here is a Complete Tutorial of Basic Seaming Techniques published on the Knit Simple Magazine. What you need to use for this dress is the Vertical Seam on Stockinette Stitch for the dress sides and Horizontal Seam on Stockinette Stitch for the shoulders.

Other Yarn Ideas

DIY Super Easy Infant Sweater

What Prompts Me to DIY
This is the second piece of a sibling set that I'm making for LLBB to match another one that I made for BB last month - DIY Super Easy Toddler Sweater. A slightly lighter version of the same colored yarn is chosen for my girl, and sized to match the anticipated time when they will be wearing it together - next Fall!

Project
One-Stitch Baby Sweater - Sized for Baby 9 Months

Materials
Yarn: Bernat Baby Sport, Color Funny Print
Knitting Needle: US11

Time & Cost
Project Time: 23 Hr
Cost: $2

How (Adapted from Original)

1. Gauge: 15 sts = 4" in garter st
2. Sweater: Cast on 45 sts. Work in garter st 32 rows. Piece measures 5" (row 1-32).
3. Beg Sleeve Shaping: Inc 1 st at each end of every RS row 18 times – 81 sts. Piece measures 10.5" from beg (row 33-68).
4. Cuffs: Cast on 12 sts at end of next 2 rows - 105 sts. Work even in garter st for 3" (22 rows). Piece measures 13.5" from beg (row 69-90).
5. Shape Back Neck: Next row k 44 sts and slip onto a holder for Right Front, bind off next 17 sts, k rem 44 sts for Left Front (rows 91).
6. Left Front: Continue even on Left Front sts for 4 rows (rows 92-95). Inc 1 st at neck edge on every RS row 3 times - 47 sts (row 96-101). Next row Cast on 2 sts at neck edge 49 sts. Work even for one row (row 102-103). Next row Cast on 6 sts at neck edge 55 sts (row 104). Work even until cuff measures 6" (row 105-112). Bind off 12 cuff sts 43 sts. Dec 1 st (k2tog on Left Front; ssk on Right Front) at side edge every RS row 18 times – 25 sts (row 113-148). Work even 32 rows (row 148-180). Bind off all sts. Count ridges on Left Front and place 4 buttons evenly spaced between ridges on Left Front opening edge.
7. Right Front: Attach yarn to Right Front sts at neck edge. Work to correspond to Left Front, rev shaping and working buttonholes (opposite markers) as foll: Work to 4 sts from end of row, (k2tog, yo, k2.
8. Finishing: Sew side seams with flat seam. Fold cuff back. Sew on buttons. Weave in ends.

Sized for Baby 9 Months
Color is a "whiter" version of the Toddler Sweater

Size and Stitch/Row Chart for Reference

Tips

1. This huge ball of baby yarn cost only $6 at Joann, and has 893 yards in it. I have used less than half of a ball for this project. For the leftover, I'm planning it for a matching sweater dress and a little scarf to go with it. I suggest a scarf because this kimono style sweater, cute as it is, is rather plain at the neckline. So a scarf would give it a nice kick. Then a sweater dress to go under it would be just too cute to pass!
2. Problem with this yarn to this pattern is that I have to use a much larger knitting needle (size 11) for a yarn that's really meant for size 6. The result is that the sweater is on the "loose" side. In other words, not too great as a wind breaker because of the relatively large "holes" in-between each stitch, but it'll still work very well as insulation and look!

Product Review: Clover Knitting Counter

Product
Clover Kacha-Kacha Knitting Stitch / Row Counter

In Short - Great to Have / Wish List!
I am never a fancy gadget type of person. I actually surprised myself when I find that I have fallen for this contraption. While I originally hesitated for 2-3 weeks before buying this over the traditional dial, I now will not give a second thought if I have to buy a counter again. Well, I suppose I can afford an extra $2.5 every now and then for something fancy!

Cost
$4.35 at Joann with 50% Off Coupon



Pros

1. The top punching button is large, loud and clear. It reduces my forever second doubt of... OK, did I register this one row that I just finished? I end up counting rows over and over again with the traditional dials because I have a habit of watching TV while knitting and it gets really foggy after a while whether I have forgotten to turn the dial before I turn the piece around for a second row. With this loud and nice "kacha" button, even my husband can sometimes tell me whether I did it.
2. So much easier to just "kacha!" when you finish a row then dropping everything and use both hands to carefully turn the dial of a traditional counter.
3. This sounds silly but there is really a satisfaction to hear that sound when I punch the button. "There goes another row!"
4. Simply looks and feels too cool!

Cons

1. About 2.5 time more expensive than the Basic Manual Mini Mashmallow Counter.
2. There is no reset button. When you finish counting one section, you need to manual turn the dial for each digit to go back to 0 before starting another section count.

Suggestion

1. For a long while, I have dismissed the use of stitch / row counter altogether. I simply pick up a pencil and mark an "I" on a piece of paper as I go. It works, although not without some hassle. Then I come across an old counting dial in my mother-in-law's craft box and thought, if a cheap counter can make things slightly easier - not having to carry around paper and pencil, and then the paper gets really crumbled after a while - why not? That's when I set out to buy one. Whichever type and style you choose to buy is a whole different matter, but some times, some things are invented to make life easier; some things are invented to make life happier! So ladies, whatever it is that you're struggling between buying and not buying, or which one to buy due to cost, you got to spice up your day every now and then if you can afford it!

Other Stitch / Row Counter Ideas

DIY Super Easy Toddler Sweater

What Prompts Me to DIY
The last time I tried to make a sweater for my newborn BB about 2 years ago, I managed to finish knitting all the pieces but had a difficult time sewing the pieces together properly to make a sweater. Grandma had to come in to save the day. This time now that my second one LLBB is coming, I decided to make a matching set of sweaters for them. Based on what happened last time, I looked for something with minimal patching and found this - One-Stitch Baby Sweater by Lion Brand.

This pattern does not require patching of knitted pieces. It's done all in one piece, and simply fold up and sewn close. I did not use their suggest yarn or needle, but improvised a little bit based on their pattern.

Project
One-Stitch Baby Sweater - Sized for Toddler 3 Years

Materials
Yarn: Red Heart Baby TLC, Color Lovey
Knitting Needle: US10

Time & Cost
Project Time: 40 Hr
Cost: $10

How (Adapted from Original)

1. Gauge: 15 sts = 3.5" in garter st
2. Sweater: Cast on 53 sts. Work in garter st 44 rows. Piece measures 6" (row 1-44).
3. Beg Sleeve Shaping: Inc 1 st at each end of every RS row 22 times – 97 sts. Piece measures 12" from beg (row 45-88).
4. Cuffs: Cast on 15 sts at end of next 2 rows 122 sts. Work even in garter st for 4" (32 rows). Piece measures 16" from beg (row 89-120).
5. Shape Back Neck: Next row K 54 sts and slip onto a holder for Right Front, bind off next 19 sts, k rem 54 sts for Left Front (rows 121).
6. Left Front: Continue even on Left Front sts for 4 rows (rows 122-125). Inc 1 st at neck edge on every RS row 4 times - 58 sts (row 126-133). Next row Cast on 2 sts at neck edge 60 sts. Work even for one row (row 134-135). Next row Cast on 6 sts at neck edge 66 sts (row 136). Work even until cuff measures 8" (row 137-152). Bind off 15 cuff sts 51 sts. Dec 1 st (k2tog on Left Front; ssk on Right Front) at side edge every RS row 22 times – 29 sts (row 153-196). Work even 44 rows (row 196-240). Bind off all sts. Count ridges on Left Front and place 4 buttons evenly spaced between ridges on Left Front opening edge.
7. Right Front: Attach yarn to Right Front sts at neck edge. Work to correspond to Left Front, rev shaping and working buttonholes (opposite markers) as foll: Work to 4 sts from end of row, (k2tog, yo, k2.
8. Finishing: Sew side seams with flat seam. Fold cuff back. Sew on buttons. Weave in ends.

Sized for Toddler 3 Years
It looks like a cute little kimono robe when BB puts it on!

I find it helpful to think of it in sections as you knit.

Tips

1. Remember always buy your supplies when they are 50% off or at least use the 40% off coupons at Joann. That's cheaper than buying anywhere online or Walmart. I got these super cute Big Bag of Buttons by Favorite Findings for $3 using a 50% off coupon that they send in the mail. Granted, I'm only going to use 4 for this project, but with 2 little ones running around, I should be able to use more of it later. Bottom line is, that it costs just about the same if you buy a small pack of 4 buttons.
2. The biggest challenge I have is to "cast on at end of row". I have never heard of it and have no idea how to do it. This clip by Judy Graham is the best one I found and tells me exactly what I need to know.
3. With the size of this sweater, you definitely need a circular knitting needle, preferably 40" long. I got this Circular Bamboo Knitting Needle Set of 15 for $20. If you aren't ready to commit on 15 needles, you can get individual ones from other sources such as these below. Here's a discussion on the various types and styles of knitting needles.
4. I've made the sleeves longer than the original pattern. Wear it with the cuffs folded up! It looks slightly more sophisticated that way!

Yarn Ideas

Buttons

Supplies

Choosing a Knitting Needle

There are several things you want to consider in choosing a knitting needle. At the end of the day, it's your personal preference as to which one is best.

Material
The most common material for a knitting needle is bamboo/wood, aluminum, or plastic. Plastic ones tend to be flimsier and bend too easily on your hand. Personally I think that's only for kids because it doesn't hurt as much when they poke themselves with it.

Most people choose between bamboo or aluminum. Bamboo is a green renewable material, which a lot of manufacturer boasts themselves about. However, aluminum is just as green because it can be recycled. Bamboo tends to stick to your yarn a little more than aluminum. If you're used to using aluminum like I did for 20 years, when I switch over to bamboo, I really have to adjust to it. You have to loosen up your tension as you knit. Otherwise, every knit is going to take a lot of effort to just stick through the loop. Once you get used to it, bamboo works just as fine as aluminum. Aluminum is smoother, so it's easier to move loops across, which I like a lot. Comparatively, you need to apply slightly more tension to the yarn as you knit because it does slide out if it's too loose. Some people prefer the bamboo because of the clicking noise of aluminum needles. I've never notice this problem, probably because I've got used to it long time ago. But it may be something you want to consider if you plan to knit before bedtime while someone's trying to fall asleep next to you. ;-)

Style
There is straight needles with one pointy side or two pointy sides, and flexible circular needles. When using straight needles, you need a pair. Circular needles are essentially two short straight needles linked together by plastic tubing.

When you're doing big pieces such as a sweater that's 36" across, you definitely need the length of flexible circular needles to simply hold it. Straight needles only come in limited length, understandably, because it's practically impossible to hold super long sticks in your arm to knit. It would just be too bulky and cumbersome. Circular needles also has the potential to knit on either side of the working piece, as required by some pattern. This can also be achieved by straight needles with two pointy ends. Since circular needles usually have maybe 4"-5" of rigid needles on either side of a flexible tubing, it's best if you plan to knit in crowded spaces such as in public transportation. That way you don't keep on poking the guy next to you.

However, I would say for most of what I've done, straight needles with one pointy end have been sufficient - until I decided to do that Super Easy Toddler Sweater which has an overall length of 30" from cuff to cuff.

Knitting Needle Ideas